Hems

            What is ahem slip stitch? The slip-stitch is a finishing stitch. Use it to hem garments with regular fold-up hems and for attaching the bias to the inside of necklines, waist edges, and sleeve/skirt/pant hems. ... The hem is pressed up and small stitches tack the fold to the fabric.
              the correct way to use such a stitch is quite easy to do, that's if you're good, and have much experience doing this. The slip stitch hem has six steps to it. I will say the step, tell you how to do it, and why it's done that way. 
             When making a hem, you should have on proper foundation garment and shoes with the same heel height as you will wear with the garment. 
 Now step 1.) MARKING: The first step is to measure from the floor to the desired finished length all around the garment. The best tool for this is a specially-made hem marker on a heavy base which marks the hem with pins or chalk. A yardstick with a rubber band indicating the distance from the floor will suffice-but be sure the yardstick is held perpendicular to the floor during the entire operation.
Step 2.) PINNING: Use fine dressmaking pins that will not mark fabric. A wrist pincushion is helpful.

Step 3.)PRESSING: Use either a steam iron or dry iron with a damp press cloth 

Step 4.)MARKING HEM DEPTH: You need a hem gauge-a 6” metal or plastic ruler with movable marker; or you can make a marker with the cardboard from stretch lace or seam binding. Notch the cardboard on the long side at proper hem depth. Use tailor’s chalk of clay for all fabrics-use wax tailor’s chalk on wool only. Do not use blackboard chalk to mark the hem depth.

Step 5.) NEEDLES AND THREAD: Sharps (or Embroidery Needles, which have longer eyes) are general sewing needles suitable for hemming. For sheer fabrics, use fine needles, sizes 9-10; for medium-weight fabrics, use sizes 7-8; for heavy-weight fabrics, use coarse needles, sizes 1-6. An all-purpose sewing thread such as Dual Duty XP; is suitable for most fabrics. However, if you are working with a very lightweight or sheer fabric, you may want to use finer thread, such as Dual Duty XP Fine for Lightweight Fabrics.

Step 6.) FUSIBLE WEB: takes the place of needle and thread in hemming. lt is a nylon web which is highly sensitive to heat and steam and is used for fusing two layers of fabric together. When applied correctly, Fusible Web holds securely through washing and dry cleaning.
 

(picture credit: Pinterest.com)